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General Questions

YES. We have dealers in several foreign countries that may stock the item you need so please check with them first. Please consult our International Orders Page for more information.

Gold Standard Gasket Kit Questions and Answers

YES. Each kit has one long piece of material for top and bottom that most people cut in half prior to starting the install. There is also a shorter piece of material included that is meant to be a seal for the chimney. If you bypass cutting the material in half to start, you'll have a small piece remaining that can be used for repair work if needed.

NO. Do not preshrink your Gold-Standard Gasket material. This ineffective advice has been bouncing around the internet since the early ages of Nomex gaskets and will do more harm than good to your Gold-Standard gasket material with its adhesive backing. However, avoid stretching the gasket during application; it is better to compress the material a bit during application--this will leave small ripples along the inside diameter of the grill that will disappear after the break in period.

Keep grill temperatures below 400°F (200°C) for the first few cooks to avoid shocking the material during the break in process.

Your new gasket is warranted to 750°F (400°C) on ceramic grills only. However, cooking at temperatures above 650°F (350°C) is usually both unnecessary and dangerous (this advice is for you steak searing and pizza baking fans).

Remember that the grill dome thermometer measures the average temperature in the dome which does not necessarily reflect the searing or baking performance. For super-hot searing, moving the meat closer to the direct infrared heat of red hot coals is more effective than a giant fire and an overheated grill. For pizza, find the sweet spot by moderating your grill temperature from 450-650 while monitoring your pizza stone surface temperature with an infrared thermometer to achieve with consistency the desired balance of crust crispiness and toppings doneness. Finesse and a little experimentation with pizza stone stacking and height above the rim will produce better results than going super-hot.

NO. Removing the grill dome is not necessary. Installation videos or advice on this subject from years ago involved using messy spray adhesives that were much easier to apply with the dome removed. With the High-Que Gold-Standard gasket kit, there is an easy to use peel and stick adhesive that eliminates installation hassles as much as possible (it still requires clean grill rim surfaces and that does take a bit of work.) As long as you are able to safely and effectively clean the grill rims top and bottom, we do not recommend removing the dome. Doing so adds the complication of safe grill dome removal and the near certainty of a complicated hinge and band adjustment.

The most difficult spot to reach cleaning is on the dome side back by the hinge. Power tools won't be able to reach the tight spaces here. Instead, use 60-80 grit sand paper to speed removal and cleanup.

Starting the new material seam at the 1 o'clock position on the grill will ease trimming the finished edge with the dome still in place because you will not have to work within the confines of the hinge.

Cold weather is considered 50°F (10°C) and colder. Below this temperature, the adhesive backing on the gasket will not bond effectively to the ceramic using the ordinary install procedures, so, let's discuss the best alternative procedures. If it's not bitterly cold, grill cleanup is best done outdoors because of the mess it will create.

Best Option: Move the grill into a heated garage or indoors and let it set overnight to reach ordinary room temperature. Proceed with the ordinary install instructions and let the grill set overnight after the gasket is applied and the hinges and bands have been adjusted. After moving the grill back outside, start a small fire and maintain 300°F (150°C) for 2-3 hours. Keep grill temperatures below 400°F (200°C) for the first few cooks to avoid shocking the material during the break in process.

Alternative: If you're unable to move the grill inside, apply the gasket to the cold rim surfaces and check and adjust hinges and bands as necessary to ensure an even seal all around. Immediately light a very small, low temperature fire to reach and maintain 200°F (90°C) for 4-5 hours which will complete the adhesive bonding process. Keep grill temperatures below 400°F (200°C) for the first few cooks to avoid shocking the material during the break in process.

The gasket seam on the grill base is an ideal spot for probe wires that need to enter the grill, especially ordinary round wires. Modern flat style wires don't need to be lined up with the seam.

Most consumer probe wires will not survive high-temperature cooking above 450°F (230°C). Even at lower temperatures, probe wires should be "Shaded" from direct infrared exposure of the fire by placing them above the legs of any plate setter or heat deflector in the grill or by wrapping them loosely with aluminum foil.

The most common mistake is not checking and adjusting the hinges and bands after installation. Proper installation includes verifying that the dome closes evenly all the way around the grill. This is easily checked with the "Dollar Bill Test": close the grill on a dollar bill or slip of paper and withdraw it at multiple positions around the grill; at each position, there should be an equal amount of tension required to remove the bill. The new replacement gasket is almost always thicker than the worn out gasket it is replacing, and the grill has probably slumped accordingly and will need some tweaking to close properly with the new thicker gasket.

The most common failure is caused by the grill closing too early at the back by the hinge; this causes the grill to tug and peel on the gasket and this is easily seen when watching this area from the side while closing the grill; it is also evidenced by very high tension required to pull out a dollar bill inserted in the hinge area of the grill.

Loose or no tension at all on the dollar bill at any location will cause hot air and smoke leakage at that point and eventual gasket failure at that location.

You should retest the grill closure periodically because the bands and hinges loosen over time because of the heating and cooling cycles of the grill.

YES. We can provide custom sized products to meet your needs. We've supplied a great many customers with gaskets for all kinds of smokers for home and commercial use. Please call 1-855-444-4783 or email [email protected] to discuss the particulars of your application. Be sure to take note of the perimeter of the seal needed, its width, and the gap that is needed to be filled by the gasket thickness. Custom gaskets may require an extra day or two to ship.

Stainless Firegrate Upgrade Questions and Answers

A small amount of charcoal will fall through the grate both before lighting and during cooking. Most all small pieces that end up on the ash pile will burn up there over time because small burning pieces will also occasionally fall through and light the other bits of charcoal up. Stirring the coals before getting started is not necessary with the High-Que firegrate because of free-flow design--simply add more coal from the top and light the grill.

Your grill will start much more quickly than it did previously. Do not walk away from the startup until you are familiar with your grill's new personality. Because the airflow bottleneck that was the cast iron grate has been removed, you will need to reduce the draft door air inlet opening from the settings you were previously accustomed to using in order to reach the same low temperatures (a thumb width opening might now become a finger width opening.)

The grill can also now be started by pushing a couple balled up sheets of newspaper in the draft door under the coals and lighting up. For extra-long cooks, lighting a few coals on the top of the pile is still the preferred method to start and maintain a low and slow cooking fire.